Reader Question: How Do I Get Shedding Under Control? How Much Shedding Is Normal?

"Hi Nik! For the past few weeks my shedding has been out of control. I'm so afraid I am going to lose all of my hair, I was thinking about relaxing again. Is this normal? PLEASE help!"

Determine if your hair is shedding or breaking off: Simply put, hair that is shedding usually has a white bulb attached to the beginning of the strand. Hair that has fallen due to breakage is usually shorter without a bulb.

Next step is to determine if the shedding is normal or abnormal: First lets get a basic idea of the growth cycle. Hair goes through several cycles throughout it's stint on your scalp; the first cycle is the anagen phase. The anagen phase is when the hair is actively growing, this typically lasts about 2-3 years [although this is just a rough estimate; the final number of years is genetically pre-determined]. The second cycle is what is known as the catagen phase. This is the phase that signifies the end of the anagen cycle and stops hair growth [typically lasts about 2-3 weeks]. The third and final phase is the telogen phase. This phase is what is known as the resting phase of your hair follicles [typically lasts 3 months]. Healthy hair should shed during the telogen phase at about 50-100 hairs per day.

Abnormal Signs of Shedding:

It is normal to loose from 50-100 shed hairs daily, however your hair should always grow back in it's normal density. If you notice any of the following patterns, this may be a sign of abnormal hair loss:

• You are noticing small/large bald spots
• You are noticing significant thinning
• Hair is growing in thinner and malnourished

Chronic shedding can also be the unfortunate result of a relaxer: 

A relaxer that is improperly applied, or left on the hair for too long can cause chemical burns. One of the many side effects of chemical burns is a weakened hair shaft. It is at this time that you may experience chronic shedding and possibly irreversible hair loss.

>> Also keep in mind that the less you shampoo or comb your hair throughout the week, the more hair fall you will notice. It isn't because the hair is shedding more than usual, it is because most of the shedding tends to fall when you are styling, combing/brushing or shampooing.

Not sure if you are experiencing abnormal shedding?

Wash, detangle and dry your hair. Grab about 20-25 strands of hair holding on securely with your thumb and middle finger. Gently tug on that section of hair taking note of the number of shed hairs. Repeat test over several different areas of your hair. Normal shedding should be about 1-2 hairs per section [as 10% of your hair is in the shedding phase], and abnormal shedding would be about 5 plus hairs per section [based on the theory that hair sheds at a rate of 50-100 hairs daily].

Do you have abnormal shedding? It can occur for numerous reasons such as:

Stress

Seasonal Shedding [I typically notice more shedding during the winter months]

Starting or stopping birth control

Recent immunization 

Postpartum shedding

Anemia 

Thyroid issues

Major surgery

Nutrient/Vitamin deficiency

Low protein intake 

Medication Side effects

Sudden change in diet

Crash diets 

Menopause 

Chronic illness [Lupus, Sickle Cell, Cancer] 

If you experience prolonged shedding, or your symptoms worsen or persist after three months [remember the telogen last for about 3 months] it may be necessary to consult a physician to diagnose possible underlying health issues.

Natural Remedies For Excessive Shedding:

Create an essential oil blend: Some essential oils contain healing cell regeneration properties that helps penetrate the cortex to repair damaged follicles and extend the anagen phase [growth cycle]. Essential oils can also stimulate hair growth and nourish the follicles resulting in healthy hair growth.

My favorite essential oil blend:

4 ounces of Jojoba Oil - Found at most health food stores in the cosmetic section or online {here}

4 drops of Rosemary Essential Oil - Found at most health food stores in the cosmetic section or online {here}

3 drops of Lavender Essential Oil - Found at most health food stores in the cosmetic section or online {here}

3 drops of Thyme Essential Oil - Found at most health food stores in the cosmetic section or online {here}

2 drops of Cedarwood Essential Oil - Found at most health food stores in the cosmetic section or online {here}

** All of my Canadian, UK, Japanese, Portuguese & Chinese Curlies can order the same products {here}[New Directions Aromatics is a trusted vendor I have ordered from many times in the past] 

To Use/Store: Combine all ingredients in a dark amber bottle and store in a dark, cool place. To use, massage scalp with treatment oil every other day before bedtime. 

Practice a healthy lifestyle: It is important to note that most cases [cases caused by metabolic abnormality] of chronic shedding can usually be self-corrected by eating a diet rich in proteins [as well as keeping up with the recommended servings of fruits and veggies], as well as practicing proper stress management techniques. 

Ayurvedic Treatments: Ayurvedic treatments work very similar to essential oils in that the properties help cell regeneration and also nourish the follicles and cortex to promote a stronger hair shaft.

Ayurvedic treatment for shedding + hair loss:

Brahmi Powder - Can be found in most Indian Grocery stores, or online {here}

Enough water to make a paste

Mix powder and water until it's a thick yet spreadable paste. Apply liberally to damp unwashed hair [apply throughout entire head], cover and allow to sit for 30minutes to an hour. Rinse well, shampoo and style as usual.

 [photo source]

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The Transitioning Checklist: How To Transition With Minimal Breakage

If you are considering going natural yet the looming thought of uncontrollable breakage is keeping you from taking the plunge, check out some of these tips. While it isn't necessary to use all of the products I recommend, it is necessary to follow the basic rules of minimal manipulation, little to no heat, as well as maintaining a healthy moisture and protein balance. 

Common causes of breakage during transitioning: 
Lack of moisture
Lack of protein 
Too much manipulation 
Improper detangling methods
High stress hairstyles [like ponytails or tight braids]
Too much protein
Too much moisture

Following this checklist will help avoid some of these common issues: 
My hair styles don't last long
My hair breaks while combing
I'm having a hard time blending the two textures

And will also help answer these questions:

What styles should I wear while transitioning?
Can I use heat while transitioning? 
How often should I use a protein treatment?  
What products should I use? 

Shampoo: I recommend shampooing hair once weekly preferably with a sulfate-free poo to keep the drying effects to a minimum. Remember that your scalp needs to be clean and free of debris for optimum hair growth. Also remember that some moisturizing and styling products tend to cause product build-up which in turns locks moisture out. Shampooing hair regularly helps keep your strands and scalp in the clear.

Deep Condition: Deep condition once weekly with heat. I recommend 30 minute sessions. This is very important as chemically processed hair tends to be a little on the porous side meaning that the amount of moisture your hair is able to retain is on the low side.  Weekly deep conditioning treatments helps to fortify your hair at the follicle as well as provide a much needed moisture boost.

Rinse: Rinsing all of the product out of your hair is just as important as cleansing your tresses. Excess residue left on your hair can not only cause product build-up, but it can also leave your finished style stiff and dull [due to the product coating the strands]. 
>>Do you have hard water? An ACV rinse is highly recommended to keep your hair free of mineral build-up as well [which also leads to dull, lackluster, moisture deficient hair].

Follow-up Condition: This is otherwise known as applying a leave-in conditioner to your hair. This is important as chemically processed and transitioning hair needs an abundance of moisture and nutrients to remain at optimal health levels.

>>It doesn't stop there, using a leave-in conditioner also helps make managing your new growth much easier as it leaves both textures pliable and soft.

Lock in Moisture: Lock in moisture with your favorite oil [see my list for product recommendations]. This will help your hair stay hydrated longer while imparting a nice sheen to your hair. 

Low Manipulation Style: Extremely important!The goal is to transition using styles that require little to no manipulation on a day-to-day basis. I would steer clear of ponytails and any other style that places an extended amount of stress on your hair. Remember that the line of demarcation [the point where your newgrowth and relaxed hair meets] is extremely fragile and susceptible to breakage. 
>>Opt for styles like roller sets, braid outs, twist outs, and flexi sets, as they require little manipulation to maintain the styles and they blend the two textures seamlessly. 


Skip the Heat: I would advise steering clear of heat until at least 6 months into your transition. Heat can weaken the protein bonds causing breakage near the line of demarcation and other areas the hair is too weak to withstand additional protein degeneration. 
>>If you want the sleek look of a thermal style, try a roller set instead. It is possible to get your new-growth silky and straight with the assistance of rollers or flexi-rods [you can see my flexi rod video here].

Other Key Points

Product Application: How you apply your product makes a big difference in the managebility of your hair, how long your hair holds a style, and how your hair looks and feels. Are you applying tons of products in hopes to tame your new-growth? If so you may actually be doing more harm than good. Not only does excess product weigh down your hair, but the film the product leaves behind can also make the hair appear dull, greasy and lackluster. 

Instead, try to practice the dime-size rule:
Serums: A dime size amount for your entire head
Stylers [like custards, creams and puddings]: A dime size portion per section you are twisting, braiding or rolling]
Leave-In Conditioner: A dime size amount per 3 inch section 

>>Are you having a hard time styling your hair due extremely thick new-growth? Spritz the new-growth thoroughly with your favorite moisturizer and cover with a plastic cap for about 15-20 minutes. This allows your hair to soak up all of the moisturizing properties making your hair easier to manage and will take some of the fuss out of styling.

Nighttime styling: Avoid cotton pillowcases like the plague. They can be extremely damaging to your hair, especially transitioning hair. The friction from the pillowcase can cause splits, tears and breakage. Use a satin pillowcase or bonnet for protection against cotton. 


Trimming: Trimming is an essential part of every hair care regimen and can help save your hair from additional damage. If you're ends are damaged, a trim should be in order immediately. Neglecting to trim can actually do more harm than good as split ends travel up the hair shaft until the strand eventually breaks. - Trimming schedules during your transition should be on an as needed basis. 


Protein Treatment: Protein treatments will help significantly curb [and in some cases eliminate] breakage whilst transitioning. Protein treatments help to fortify the hair which helps it withstand mechanical manipulation from styling and detangling as well as fill in the gaps along the hair shaft which will vary depending on the needs of your hair; however many transitioners operate on a 6 week protein treatment schedule. 


Detangling: Proper detangling methods can possibly eliminate issues with matting, ease styling efforts as well as make hair easier to handle while finger combing and moisturizing. I recommend a thorough detangling once a week during wash day [check out this detangling/shampoo tutorial], and finger combing if needed throughout the week.

[photo source]

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Important Tips You Should Know Before Protective Styling - Wigs & Bun Edition

 This photo was taken back in February of 09. Literally a few months after starting my healthy hair journey. I began to experiment with protective styling [specifically buns] until I perfected braid outs and twist outs. Because I knew the implications of pulling your hair taught regularly, I decided to braid my hair in about 8 sections, allow to dry overnight, then loosely bun for more of a wavy effect. This saved my hairline and nape from excess tension, and ultimately follicular damage. 
-------------

1. Be mindful of your hairline and nape: Most damage to the hairline, temples and nape area is due to excessive stress from styling. If you wear braids, buns and other hairstyles where the hair is pulled taught, you are susceptible to Traction Alopecia. Traction Alopecia stems from follicular damage and depending on the extent can be permanent [as follicles are not able to regenerate themselves]. 

• If you are wearing buns as a protective style, switch up the placement of your bun. A high bun one day, a low chic bun the next, and so forth. The goal is to reduce tension in the same areas and relive stress placed on the follicles. 
• Again, for bun wearers; switch up the parts. If you part your hair in the same area over time, you may notice thinning in that area. Alternate the placement of parts to alleviate stress placed on the follicles.
•  Avoid excessively tight hairstyles for long periods of time. Sure there are some people that can retain length and thickness by wearing buns excessively for years. However this isn't the case for most of us. In the US, African American women have the highest rates of Traction Alopecia due to our styling preferences. Experiment with other protective styling options from time like loose pony's and even two-strand twists fashioned into a chic updo. Your hair will thank you! 
• Do not sleep in tight buns or ponytails. Allow your scalp to breath and relieve stress placed on the follicles. Let your hair down, and give yourself a scalp massage to increase circulation to your scalp. The circulation feeds your follicles and promotes hair growth.  

2. For those wearing wigs as a protective style: Don't forget to moisturize. This is extremely important as breakage and brittle hair can go hand in hand with styles that cover up the scalp. This is so because hairstyles like weaves and wigs prevents the absorption of moisture and decreases ability for the scalp to breathe. The key to having healthy hair is keeping your scalp healthy. The main components of a healthy scalp are: cleansing, moisturizing, circulation, and preventing excess stress.

• Weekly shampoo and deep conditioning treatments are still necessary.

• Alternate between wigs, half wigs, and phony-ponys to reduce the amount of time your scalp is covered. 

• Implement regular exfoliation treatments [more info and a recipe can be found here], as the lack of moisture and air can trigger inflammation of the scalp which could later lead to hair loss and thinning. In fact, scalp inflammation is the #1 cause of hair loss in women. 

• Ditch the stocking cap and opt for a silk scarf instead. A stocking cap can cause breakage around the hairline and nape due to friction

• Moisturize the hair at least once daily, as wigs tend to suck the moisture right out of your tresses. 

• Be extremely careful of the placement of combs attached to half wigs and combs, as the digging/friction can cause hair loss as well. Try to stick the combs in the silk scarf so that only a small portion of the comb is attached to your hair. This will help minimize friction.

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Giveaway Winner + Product Recommendations For Transitioners

 [Photography by: Ajani Truth - Styling: Kia Chenelle]

First I would like to announce the winner of the Rachel Stewart Giveaway! *Drumroll Please* YaHighness 
Please contact me at: nikole@themoptopmaven.com with your mailing address to claim your prize! - A big thank you to Rachel of Rachel Stewart Jewelry for hosting, and everyone who entered!

Also, I am doing a series of posts [Guest Blogging] for Wedding Soiree! A fabulous wedding site founded by a group of premier wedding planners in Atlanta. Check them out, and check out my newest post: The Four Week Wedding Boot Camp Your Hair Will Thank You For - I hope this comes in handy for any bride to be out there!

---------------------- Now On To The Deets

The needs of relaxed and transitioning hair is different from the needs of hair that is natural. This is due in part to the structure of the hair. Hair that has been chemically treated is susceptible to a bevy of issues; most notably keratin loss, cuticle damage, and hair that is overly porous. Due to these changes in the structure of the hair, some products formulated for natural hair may leave your relaxed or transitioning hair with less than desirable results [sticky, stiff, matted, dry]. Because of this, I decided to comprise a short but useful list of products to ease your transition period.

Co-Washing Conditioner

Some of you may already be familiar with the term co-washing. For those that aren't, co-washing is a method of cleansing the hair without using shampoo. Shampoo on the relaxed portion of your hair could cause excess tangles, matting, and dryness. Because of this, a conditioner is used in lieu of shampoo to gently cleanse the scalp while imparting moisture to thirsty strands. How often you co-wash depends on the state of your hair [is it fine and oily or thick and dense?]. Some transitioners opt to co-wash every other day [I co-washed every 3-days] which can get expensive if you are using moderately priced conditioners.

Stocking up on inexpensive yet effective brands can save money in your pocket, as well as ease some of your transitioning woes. - My favorite co-washing conditioner [and the favorite of many transitioners] is V05 Strawberries & Cream Moisture Milks - For $1.00 a bottle [and less in many stores], you can stock up on an effective co-wash conditioner without the guilt.

Shampoo

I recommend using an actual shampoo about twice a month while transitioning. This is because the agents from the conditioner can cause buildup on your tresses. As we know, buildup can create a barrier along the hair shaft locking moisture out, which makes for dry, stiff and brittle hair. This is the last thing you want whilst transitioning, as the line of demarcation [where your relaxed hair and natural hair meets] is very delicate and prone to breakage if not properly moisturized. However it doesn't stop there, for best results seek out a shampoo that is sulfate free, this is a lot better for your transitioning hair as it gently cleanses your strands without stripping it of it's natural oils. 

As you can see, the underlying theme here is moisture. You need to keep your transitioned hair as moisturized as possible to prevent unnecessary breakage. I highly recommend Elucence Moisture Benefits Shampoo.

Shampoo Tip: Focus on the scalp while shampooing. The scalp and new growth tends to have a lot more oil versus the relaxed hair which has a tendency to be a little on the dry side. As the water rinses away the shampoo, it will gently cleanse the shaft of the hair as well. Lightly agitate the shaft of the hair while rinsing to distribute shampoo. 

Condition:

You can opt to use your co-washing conditioner, which is great if you want to simplify the amount of products in rotation. Or you can choose another conditioner which is a bit more moisturizing; my favorite for transitioning hair is Aussie Moist. It does a wonderful job at delivering moisture to your new growth making it soft, moisturized and easy to manage. Aussie Moist also hydrates your relaxed hair and improves combability which is a major plus.

Deep Conditioner:

Deep conditioning treatments are essential to every effective total regimen. I have a lot of relaxed & transitioning friends who swear by Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose. So much so, that I decided to give it a try as well [review soon!]. Honeysuckle Rose is extremely thick  and ultra hydrating which is a no-brainer that I would recommend this as the deep conditioner of choice. Use this product once weekly with heat to intensify the moisturizing benefits. 

Protein Treatment: 

One of the single most important products you will buy [aside from a moisturizer] is a protein treatment. This will fortify the hair near the line of demarcation which helps prevent breakage. The line of demarcation has a tendency to be more fragile than the rest of your hair, and can break-off just from combing and styling alike. Protein treatments helps replenish protein lost from chemical and thermal services. After a protein treatment, your hair will temporarily mimic that of healthy hair [at least until you need another treatment]. A good protein treatment would be the Aphogee 2 minute product. It's tried and true, and strong enough for to properly fortify your relaxed hair.

Leave-In Conditioner:

Keeping with our theme of moisture, it's imperative to have a hydrating leave-in. Again, for those wishing to simply and save on cash, you can use your regular conditioner as a leave-in. A word of caution if you do this, go easy on the product. Too much could easily cause a white filmy residue on your strands leaving you with hair that lacks body and attracts dirt. My absolute favorite leave-in for relaxed hair is Rusk Smoother, Passionflower and Aloe Leave-In. This product is light enough to wear under free flowing styles [like braid outs and twist outs], yet hydrating enough to leave your hair touchably soft and manageable.

Moisturizer:

This is the product you can use in between co-washing & shampoo sessions to make managing your hair on a day-to-day basis a lot easier. While moisturizers obviously impart moisture to your strands, they can also help prevent breakage and splitting from mechanical damage [mechanical damage= Damage due to combing, brushing and excess manipulation] by easing manageability. It may sound strange, but one of my favorite moisturizers to use on transtioning hair is S-Curl Curl Activator. I promise you won't look like Darryl from Coming To America. It hydrates your relaxed hair without leaving it gummy, sticky and hard like a lot of moisturizers formulated for natural hair tends to do. S-Curl Curl Activator will leave your new growth soft, shiny, manageable and ultra moisturized along with the relaxed section of your hair.

Oil: 

In order to keep your hair hydrated longer, reach for an oil to seal in the moisture. Oil creates a barrier on the hair shaft which greatly improves moisture retention. Jojoba Oil is a wonderful choice for both transitioners and natural's alike, as it is light enough for daily use and it most closely resembles the structure of sebum [the oil your body produces to nourish and lubricate your skin/hair] .

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