Tips to Having a Successful Transition - Part 1

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To seamlessly blend your two different textures, opt for a flexi rod set like the model above. Not only does rod-setting help blend the textures well, but you also cut down on manipulating the hair.  

Ease Detangling Woes & Save Your Hair
Detangling at any point in your hair journey can cause breakage, & splits; but you must take extreme care while transitioning as the line of demarcation is extremely fragile. You can make your own "detangling serum" in a snap out of herbs that can easily be found in your local health food store, or online at places like www.mountainroseherbs.com

Here's my favorite mix:
1 tablespoon Marshmallow Root
1 tablespoon Irish Moss
2 cups water
1 tablespoon olive oil

Add herbs to boiling water, and stir frequently until the consistency is that of a light gel. Once mixture has reached the desired consistency, strain mixture through cheesecloth, or a fine sieve. Add olive oil to serum, pour into a spray bottle, and use immediately.

How do you use this? Section clean, damp hair into four quadrants, adding the serum to each quadrant. Detangle each section thoroughly, and either braid/twist to keep each section neat, then rinse. 
 

Why this works? Irish Moss is rich in trace minerals which is very beneficial for your hair. Also, Marshmallow Root, & Irish Moss both release a mucilaginous substance that has abundance of minerals and proteins, and the mucilage that is released offers an incredible amount of "slip".

 

Protein
Protein is one of the key components when it comes to reducing breakage during your transition. Hair that lacks protein is exceptionally weak, and susceptible to breakage; especially around the line of demarcation. Your hair is comprised of mostly what is known as Keratin. Each time you chemically process your hair [relaxers, color treatments etc], it weakens the keratin protein structure, so regular protein treatments are recommend to temporarily strengthen the hair. How often you do protein treatments is determined by assessing the condition of your hair, an assessment is necessary as too much protein can cause breakage as well.
NOTE:
I also want to point out that thermal straightening, improper blow-drying techniques, and excessive use of heat can also contribute to a weakened protein structure. 

How to assess if your hair is in need of a protein treatment? Is your hair "mushy", or "limp" when wet, does your hair "stretch" a lot when combed? Chances are you need a protein treatment.

What type of protein treatment should I use? For those that are weary of hard core protein treatments like Aphogee, there are always other options. One of my favorite treatments is a 2+1 by Sebastian. It's two parts moisture, to one part protein, and the result is silky, soft, healthy, manageable hair. This product works so well, a deep conditioning treatment is not necessary.

Another favorite of mine is Dudley's Hair Rebuilder, this is a little heavier in the protein department, but also imparts an incredible amount of moisture. This was also a go-to product for me because it corrects issues with elasticity, porosity, lack of protein, and lack of moisture. - This is the perfect product for transitioner's, as most tend to have issues with elasticity, porosity, moisture, and protein deficiencies.

You can find both products at most professional beauty supply stores.

Moisture Retention
I have already talked about the effects of chemical treatments in relation to the porosity of your hair. This time I want to touch on other products that can also temporarily "fill the gaps" along the hair shaft to ensure moisture retention.

Cellophane: Cellophane's can also temporarily deposit proteins that bind to the hair shaft; what this does is fills the gaps along the shaft to ensure that moisture loss is kept to a minimum. Not only can cellophane's help temporarily correct porosity issues, but they also help impart an incredible amount of shine as well.
Jazzings, Adore, & Sebastian Colorshine's are all cellophane's that I have used with great results.

You can find Jazzing at most Sally's beauty supply stores, and you can find Adore & Sebastian at most professional beauty supply stores. 

Henna Treatments: Can also work to temporarily correct porosity in the same way that cellophane's work. If you have a relaxer it is highly recommended that you use Body Art Quality Henna, as Henna that isn't BAQ is purported to have chemicals in it that can cause an adverse reaction when applied to relaxed hair.

One of the most reputable vendors I can recommend for BAQ Henna is www.hennaforhair.com

Moisturizing Products
Once you have corrected issues with porosity, it's time to feed your folicles with products to keep it soft, and moisturized. I tend to like products with added herbs, and essential oils, here are a few of my favorites:

Amla & Olive Heavy Cream - Qhemet Biologics: This is probably one of the BEST moisturizing products I have used to date, and highly popular amongst transitioner's and naturals respectively. It contains a few of my favorite ingredients like Amla, Aloe, Olive Oil, and Brahmi!

Leave In Conditioner + Water Combo - Take your favorite light leave-in, dilute with a little distilled water, and add it to a spray bottle. For a more softeness, opt for rose water or spring water in lieu of distilled. Rosewater can be found in most Indian Grocery stores in the cooking isle for about $3/32oz

Seal In The Moisture!
You can use any oil to seal in the moisture from your daily moisturizing treatments. To seal in the moisture apply a light layer of oil to your hair. Oil molecules are a lot larger than the tiny spaces along your hair shaft, so they cannot be absorbed; instead oil acts as a barrier to lock the moisture molecules in. Beware that a build-up of oils can also lock moisture out, so it is imperative that you remove product build-up regularly. Any easy non-abrasive way would be to use Apple Cider Vinegar as a final rinse, this is used by many as a gentle clarifier.

For The Budget Fashionistas - My Top Picks For Transitioners

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Hydracap Processing Cap {$3.99} - Don't have the dough for a heating cap or hard-hat dryer? All you need is your favorite heavy duty DC [even suave strawberries and cream or herbal essence hello hydration, mixed with four tablespoons of olive oil will work] this processing cap, and a blow dryer and your hair is in for a deep conditioning treat it will thank you for later!

Jilbere Shower Comb {$1.59}- A nice [cheap] no frills seamless comb that detangles well! This should be a staple in everyone's "hair kit" whether relaxed or natural.

Herbal Essence Hello Hydration {varies; $3 and up) - Perfect for co-washing, deep conditioning, and using as an aid to help in the detangling process.

Henna {varies; $.99-3.99} - Yes you can use Henna if you are transitioning, as long as it is Body Art Quality. It's a natural, inexpensive way to fortify your hair, minimize breakage, as well as shedding.

Pantene Relaxed & Natural Breakage Defense Mask {5.99} - I have a lot of transitioning & relaxed friends that swear by this. I have even used this on my natural hair with stellar results! If you try this, make sure you rinse thoroughly with COLD water to prevent any type of film, or buildup [and to close the cuticles of course]!

Apple Cider Vinegar {varies; $.99 and up}- This can be used to gently remove product buildup, and it also helps close the cuticles if used during a final rinse [which helps a great deal with detangling]!ACV also gives imparts a nice healthy sheen to hair.
I swear by ACV rinsing, it also helps to remove minerals left behind from hard water as well! Try this simple recipe for starters.
2 Tablespoons of ACV + 2 Cups of Spring Water
Pour this mixture on your hair after rinsing out your conditioner; and leave in [the smell will go away after about 10minutes or so], your hair should be a lot more manageable, and shiny to boot!

10 Tips for Transitioners

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Protein is your friend - Chemically processed hair needs a bit of help in the form of protein treatments. This keeps your hair strong, and also helps with the elasticity as well. Remember you want to minimize breakage and shedding during your transition, so regular protein treatments are key [once monthly is good for starters]. Also remember to deep condition AFTER each protein treatment.

Low Manipulation Hair Styles - Too much manipulation is like death to your tresses, now is the time to handle your hair with kid gloves. Low mani styles are your friend! Don braids, twists, roller sets, flexi rod sets, braid outs, low tension buns, bantu knot outs, and twist outs.

Invest in a GOOD detangling comb - As you can see, the theme here is reducing excess breakage. Detangling can wreak havoc on your hair, but you can overcome that with the purchase of a good detangling comb. Preferably a seamless comb [as hair tends to snag on the seams of combs].

Silk Pillowcase, Satin Bonnets, Satin Scarves - Are indispensable little "tools" - My favorite is the silk pillow, perfect for those who can't keep on a silk scarf at night.Try to AVOID sleeping on regular cotton pillowcases, as they can cause breakage as well.

Try to go sans heat for the first 6-8 months - Thermal straightening can have the same effects as a relaxer in a sense that it can break down the protein bonds in your hair. When the protein bonds are weak, your hair will break. This is why you normally get breakage on or near the line of demarcation [the weaker hair and new growth meet at this point]. Thermal straightening can cause the following woes;
- Hair that is too dry from improper straightening techniques
- Protein bonds weaken, then hair breaks at or sometimes even above the line of demarcation
- Heat damaged hair [you don't want to spend all that time transitioning only to have hair that is heat damaged]


Deep Condition Regularly - Keeping your hair conditioned is a regular part of most if not all healthy hair care regimens. But with all of this talk of protein treatments, it is imperative that you keep your hair moisturized. I recommend deep conditioning once weekly WITH heat.


Shampoo hair in sections - This is a good piece of advice for naturals and transitioners alike, as my hair tends to tangle and knot when I work with sections smaller than four. Relaxed hair is very prone to matting and tangles, so shampooing hair [and conditioning hair] in sections will cut down excess detangling time, and unnecessary tangles and shedding.

Try to use Sulfate Free Shampoo - This can help retain some of the natural oils that regular shampoo's tend to strip from your hair. For all of you that aren't quite ready for the 'no poo regimens; this is one you should definitely try.
  
Always use a conditioner when detangling - Load your hair up with conditioner, and make sure your hair is saturated with plenty of water. Take your seamless comb, and detangle! [Work in sections of 4] - Detangling should be a breeze if you are careful, and have enough conditioner & water in your hair. Another trick is to detangle under a stream of low pressure water in a shower, bath tub or sink.