Calling All Transitioners - Transition Friendly Products

There are two things that every girl must remember as she is transitioning; (1) Protein and (2) Moisture. Having a harmonious moisture/protein balance is critical in the transitioning process.

Protein is very important because as you receive chemical services [such as relaxers], it breaks down the protein bonds in your hair and reduces the amount of elasticity causing it to be susceptible to breakage. I want to also point out that services such as color, and improper thermal treatments [pressing, flat-ironing, curling etc], can also result in the damage of protein bonds [and the damage from these treatments can mirror those of damage from a relaxer]. Protein is key in helping to minimize, and even prevent breakage at the line of demarcation [the area where your new growth, meets chemically treated hair].

Moisture is equally as important for growth retention, and to prevent breakage from the amount of protein you are using on your hair. Too much protein and not enough moisture is a surefire way to get a free room at heartbreak hotel. I would suggest alternating between a moisturizing conditioner and a protein conditioner weekly. 

Here are some of my fav products that are great for transitioners, people with color damaged hair, and even heat damaged hair. I love these because they actaually live up to their claims!

• Lanza Leave-In Protector - Product Claims: An advanced protein-rich formula specifically designed to build and maintain strength in hair that has been weakened from over-exposure to the elements or chemicallt or thermally damaged. Quickly absorbed, super light moisturizing conditioner and protective lotion. 

• Dudley's Hair Rebuilder - Product Claims: Rebuilds badly damaged hair. This deep penetrating conditioner detangles, builds body, softens and reduces static.

• Aveda Damage Remedy Intensive Restructuring Treatment - Product Claims: Our intensive weekly treatment deeply penetrates to help repair, seal and smooth even the most damaged hair. Using the power of pure plant oils and quinoa protein, it restores health, silkiness and shine. Helps strengthen hair weakened by chemical processes, heat styling and environmental exposure. Quinoa protein penetrates the hair shaft, working from inside to help strengthen and repair. Castor, jojoba and meadowfoam seed oils smooth hair's surface.

• Goldwell Kerasilk Conditioning Treatment - Product Claims: Formulated with natural silk proteins and wheat lipids, the Kerasilk Rich Care formulas (formerly Care & Smoothness) gently cleanses and conditions damaged, dry, porous or curly hair. Rich Care Treatment, Goldwell's bestseller, now works even better, offering unsurpassed conditioning, strengthening and protects hair from future stress.
  

• Sebastian 2+1 Treatment - Product Claims: Hair, like the body, needs moisture and protein to stay healthy and conditioned. Sebastian invented 2+1 Treatment, an original recipe of 2 parts moisture and 1 part protein, to give the hair what it needs - deep intensive hydration, combined with the power of a protein pack. Normal or damaged hair feels conditioned, silky, moisturized and healthy. At Sebastian, 2+1 equals fabulous!

• Qhemet Biologics Amla & Olive Heavy Cream - Product Claims: This thick, rich formula leaves extra dry, coarse hair supple for days! Recommended #1for transitioning naturals by Clutch Magazine.

• Qhemet Burdock Root Butter Cream - Product Claims: Our Burdock Root Butter Cream is a light, water based leave-in for fine haired naturals, straight styles and those looking for a light penetrating moisturizer. It conditions and softens while nourishing the scalp. Leaves hair healthy, soft and supple!

• Keracare Super Reconstructor - Product Claims: extensively repairs weak, damaged hair due to shedding, breakage and severe cuticle and fiber degradation due to chemical, thermal, mechanical or sun damage. Penetrates deep within the cortex to fortify fractured, shredded fibers. Forms a fibrillar network around the hair shaft to lock in moisture. Restores natural porosity to hair.

Tips & Tricks for Hassle Free Styling

[source: Shake It Sheila] 

I have had my share of hair styles that never saw the light of day, they are usually hidden under a hat, or pulled back into a makeshift bun. These mishaps usually happen when I try a new product, fail to detangle properly, or skip adding condish to my hair [really bad move]. For those of you who haven't seen my hair vids, here's a short [yet useful list] of little tips and tricks I have learned along the way!

• For styles that are free-flowing such as braid outs or twist outs, I like to use minimal amounts of products that are lightweight. This makes for fluffier, shiner, hair with lots of body. Now you can use a combination of products, however use them sparingly, and choose them wisely. Too much product can yield "dull" hair appears weighed down, and lacks movement. 

• Get the hair uber CLEAN before styling, whether you use bentonite clay, sulfate shampoo, herbs, or baking soda, make sure the hair is free from residue before styling. Your hair will be shinier, and have more body if you start with a clean palate.  

• Detangle hair only while loaded with conditioner. I usually condition for about 15 minutes to let the moisturizing properties penetrate my strands, THEN detangle, and finally sit back under my dryer for another 15 minutes. 

• Make sure hair is detangled and conditioned thoroughly prior to styling. Also if you are braiding or twisting your hair, do so with caution; split ends galore surely awaits you if you aren't careful [believe me, I have been there and it 'aint pretty]. 

• If you have tangle-prone hair, try shampooing and conditioning while in (4) fat braids or twists. This has helped me out IMMENSELY, and I know it has played a major role in length retention. Less hair lost and split while detangling = more retention. 

• When you are shampooing your hair, use your fingertips not your nails to gently cleanse your scalp. 

• Don't overdo it on the shampoo [because of the potential drying effects sulfates], keep in mind that some professional products do not produce a lot of lather. Try getting into the habit of using dime sized portions or less for each round of shampoo. Not only will you benefit by using less shampoo, you can also save your tresses from sulfate overload. 

• If you have hard water like I do, it may be necessary to add an additional step to your regimen like an Apple Cider Vinegar rinse [do this after rinsing out your conditioner]. This gently gets rid of minerals and deposits left behind from your water. Other bonuses include restoring the PH balance of your hair, adding sheen, and sealing the cuticle which aids in tangle free styling.

Revamp Your Hair Staples for Winter

[source: Color My Soul]

It has been a major struggle trying to figure out what my hair likes during the winter, as a lot of my spring/summer hair staples lose their mojo during the frigid winter months [60 in Cali is frigid to me].

After much trial and error, I have come to rely on a few products that pack enough moisture to keep my hair shiny, soft, and to keep me from having to carry around flame retardant due to the nature of my once hazardous flammable hair. This past weekend, I had to shelve my beloved Sebastian Potion Number 9 Leave-In Conditioner because as it cold colder, it just didn't do the trick like it used to; the same for my Oyin Honey Hemp Conditioner [I wonder if they can make a winter version].

I decided to play the martyr and experiment with new leave-in's and hair products this week. Getting a decent leave-in was my number one priority, as a leave-in on my hair is necessary at all times to keep it at it's optimum moisture level. My condish of choice was Paul Mitchell The Conditioner; I spotted it at Ulta and it was only $3.95 so I went in for the kill.

Product review videos on a few different winter-friendly [aka won't leave your hair feeling like tumbleweed] conditioners are on the way, but let me say how much I LOVE Paul Mitchell's The Conditioner. It left my hair soft, shiny, and felt moisturized days after use, the fact that it is easily accessible and cheap is also a plus. Here are some other products I have experimented with that specialize in results:

• Lanza Leave-In Conditioner [When I have the mullah for this, I splurge]
  
• Lanza Leave-In Protector - [I would recommend this to people who have relaxers, or damaged hair due to thermal or chemical styling] 
•  Paul Mitchell The Conditioner [A Leave-In]
  
• Jessicurl Weekly Deep Treatment
• Dudley's Hair Mask
• Dudley's Hair Rebuilder
• Oyin's Handmade Whipped Pudding - Moisturizer/Styler
  
• Qhemet Biologics Burdock Root Butter Cream - Moisturizer/Styler
• Qhemet Biologics Amla & Olive Heavy Cream - Moisturizer/Styler
  
• Drink PLENTY of water
• BUY A HUMIDIFIER if you can :-) I am going to pick one up this weekend; I have a friend who swears by them for both her hair and skin during winter months
  

Before using any new leave-in/styler, here are a few suggestions:

• Clarify the hair to remove it of any buildup from previous products (You can use a clarifying Shampoo like Neutrogena Ant-Residue Shampoo, or you can add baking soda to your regular shampoo)
  
• Use an acidic rinse [Apple Cider Vinegar] after rinsing out conditioner - This will help your hair's chances of being able to absorb all the moisture it can. Acidic Rinses do this by sealing the cuticle which temporarily lends a helping hand with porosity issues.  

Oh my [Naked] Hair

source: Afroflower Universe

So I have done away with the pressing comb [for now], packed away all of my curling irons [indefinitely], and decided to try and "embrace the curl". This has definitely been hard, really hard, for the past 20-something years, I have been accustomed to straight hair [at any cost].

I have learned a lot of things along the way, (1) my addiction to wanting to have bone straight hair, with not a single hair out of place stemmed from insecurity. And (2) I wanted to further explore [and did] where this insecurity came from, and if I was denouncing my culture by objecting to show my kinky roots. This hasn't been easy, the truth hurts. Stings. Yet it sets you free.

I will admit, I have yet to showcase my NAKED hair to the world, for I am not sure I have fully accepted it in all it's glory. My vice of needing to keep my hair straight, has now been replaced with finding curl enhancing creams, pomades, and other products to tame what I once deemed as unruly hair. It's funny because I have YET to see what my hair looks like dried with no product in it whatsoever. I think I may test the waters a little bit, and I will definitely post a pic when I do!

source: Black Angels

As I sift through more and more pictures, and shed my stagnant view of beauty, I start to get more of a sense of how beautiful afro-textured hair really is. I have a long way to go, and looking at pics of hair in it's most natural state isn't going to change my actions/attitudes/views about myself overnight. However as long as I know where I am going, I know I will be just fine.

This post is for all my beautiful sisters out there who needed a little bit of natural inspiration today. Enjoy!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

source: (of all the pics above) Afroflower Universe

4 Must Have Hair Goodies [Your hair will thank you later]

[I want her hair. I smell a twist out in my future. - source; I Mean Fashion]

• Microfiber Hair Towel - I love these, and you will too if you try one. They are highly absorbent [which cuts down on drying time], and also help to combat the dreaded frizz monster. Not to mention they reduce split ends during the towel drying process [they are made of super soft microfiber]. ($5.09 - Kmart) 

• Denman Detangling Brush [D81M] - Much better [for my tresses] than the regular Denman, as this one is made specifically for detangling. I still detangle first with my Mason Pearson, but I sometimes smooth out the hair with this brush. Sleek and smooth every time!  (15.65 - Beauty Deals)

• Pure Brazil Nut Oil - I love this stuff, [please don't use if you have nut allergies] it is thick, and EXTREMELY moisturizing. Add a little bit to your shampoo, use it by itself as a prepoo conditioning treatment, or you can use it to seal the moisture into your hair. This is hands down one of my favorite oils to use for hair! It imparts mega shine, and makes for soft, touchable hair. (1.5oz $2.58 - Texas Natural Supply) 

• Rene Furterer Karite Intense Nourishing Conditioning Cream - This is a definite SPLURGE item, so it is not heavy on my product rotation list. It was mentioned in an article by my hair idol Tracee Ellis Ross, so you know I HAD to get it. I use it in my hair before hitting the steam room at my gym, then I rinse it out, pull my hair back in a bun, and finish the rest of my hair rituals at my house. The only drawback is the ingredients [which I have listed below for your convenience], they aren't all natural like my beloved Jessicurl Weekly Deep Treatment, but for the softness and manageability I get from my using it, I will take the bullet every now and then. - This puppy will set you back $46 for 6.8oz and is available through Sephora.

Ingredients; Water (Aqua), Sodium Laureth Sulfate, PEG-7 Glycerol Cocoate, Cocamide Mipa, Oleth-10, Lauryl Betaine, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Fruit (Butyrospermum Parkii), BHT, Citric Acid, Fragrance (Parfum), Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil (Glycine Soya), Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols (Glycine Soja), Glycolipids, Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Limonene, Linalool, Phospholipids, Polyquaternium-7, Sorbic Acid, Yellow 5 (CI 19140), Yellow 6 (CI 15985).

Active Ingredients;  
-Shea Oil (extracted from shea butter contains 80% of essential fatty acids): Shea helps rebuild the hydrolipidic film and the intercellular cement in scalp and hair.
-Phospholipids: Essential substances found in the composition of cellular membranes. Because of their high affinity with capillary structure they penetrate into the deepest hair layers to rebuild cellular membranes and reactivate intercellular exchanges, which is a source of life in hair.
-Copra Oil (extracted from coconut is rich in essential fatty acids and vitamin E): Its softening, nourishing, and coating qualities make it a choice active ingredient. In Polynesia, copra oil has been used for ages to moisturize and protect devitalized hair.

Miss Jessie's - The Cut

source: FuckYeahBlackChicksWithStyle

[A few things come to mind when I see this picture (1) Her hair is gorge, I love uber big hair (2) I wonder if she has a "silkener" and (3) I am going to need to get my hair "shaped" in order to look this fly.]

So that's it, I have made the decision to fly down to New York with my accomplice Lo this Feb, so that we can try our fortune at Miss Jessie's Salon. The more and more I wear my hair in curly styles the more apparent it is that I need some type of shape to my hair. So Angle Balance Cut here I come!! [I am NOT getting a silkener FYI]

I will definitely report here when I have done the do, whether it be good, bad, or ugly!

Keeping Single Strand Knots at Bay - [Well, most of em]

 

[Nothing like some early morning curlspiration. I love her hair. source: Sutherland Models - Jessi M'Bengue]

One of the things I think comes with the territory of wearing your hair curly are those dreaded single strand knots/fairy knots. Last year when embarking on my natural hair journey I had tons of em, so much so that I went back to straightening on a regular basis [that was short lived]. Slowly I started inching back into wearing more natural hair styles, my affinity with long sleek hair was over, and I longed for BIG curly hair.

I started doing research on what I could do to try and keep them at bay, and after looking at tons of articles/blogs/youtube channels and the likes, I devised my own regimen. Operation Eliminate Single Strand Knots was in full force. So dolls, if you are struggling with split ends, and single strand knots, here are a few things that may help keep them to a minimum.

• Invest in a GOOD detangling comb. I can't stress this enough. If you detangle while wet [as most people do], you are working with your hair in one of it's most fragile states. Your hair is worth the splurge, especially if it prevents set backs in the future. Here are some of my recommendations:

                      - Mason Pearson Detangling Comb [best hands down] - ($26.00 - Drugstore.com)
                      - Magic Star Jumbo Rake - ($17.50 - Hotcombs)

• Shampoo & condition hair in sections OR braids instead of shampooing your whole head at once. This has helped me immensely, my hair is less prone to tangles and matting when I tackle it in sections, it also makes detangling much easier as well. I usually separate my hair into (4) [two on each side and two in the back], and it works like a charm. 

• TRY OIL RINSING! It really works. Here's how you do it:

                   - Shampoo hair
                   - Apply your favorite oil to hair, & leave in for 5 mins [my fav is Brazil Nut Oil]

                   - Rinse out the oil with warm water
                   - Then condition your hair with your favorite condish
                   - Rinse out condish with cold water 

• Detangle hair only while dripping wet, or under running water. Honestly, I have no real explanation why this works. It just does. And Lawd knows I don't ask questions when something works, I just go with the flow. Remember when detangling to start from the bottom first, working your way up. 

• Seal in the moisture after applying a leave-in. I like to use Monoi De Tahiti oil on my hair [concentrating on my ends] after using my condish. Not only does it seal in the moisture, it also adds sheen, additional softness, and a soft scent.  

Try one [or hopefully all] of these methods, and you should notice a difference with single strand knots, and split ends! 

The [not so] TWA

source: Fayruz Abdiamn Sutherland Models

 

If I had a little fro, this is how I'd rock it. This model obviously has her sides tapered, so it gives it a different look. To get this look: (1)Wash and condition hair as usual, use Sebastian Potion Number 9 Lite (perfect for free flowing styles) as your leave in of choice (or your own personal fav). (2) In a spray bottle add water, then set aside. (3) Make tiny sections to prepare for setting your har, spray each section of hair with water to keep it dripping wet, add a dollop of Miss Jessie's Curly Pudding (or any setting product of your choice), and comb the section with a rat tail comb to make it smooth. (4) Add end papers to the hair, and set them on ORANGE PERM RODS (25-30 rods). (5) Once your entire head is covered, spray your hair with a  heat protectant, I like Aveda Brilliant Damage Control. (6) Sit under the dryer for about an hour (or until dry..heating times may vary), once your hair is dry, you may begin taking down the rods. (7) Make sure to run your fingers through your hair to get rid of any parts, and give the hair more of a natural feel. Play around here, it's ok to separate the curls, you get more volume. (8) To get super shiny hair, add some Chi Silk Infusion to your hair while finger styling the curls. You can use Monoi De Tahiti Oil, or just plain Coconut Oil. Finger style, add some hair candy and you are set! 

For my chica's who want to make a BOLD statement...check out Fayruz's 80's inspired flat top! Fierce!